Driveway sealing & re-sanding

Pressure washing block paving does two things: it takes the dirt off, and it takes the jointing sand out. Leave it like that and the blocks start to move, weeds find the empty joints, and by the next summer the drive looks worse than before it was cleaned.

Re-sanding puts kiln-dried sand back into every joint. Sealing on top holds the sand in, keeps oil and leaf stain sitting on the surface rather than soaking in, and makes the next wash a much smaller job.

What's included

• Joints refilled with kiln-dried sand and brushed through properly
• Sand compacted so it settles into the full depth of the joint
• Sealer applied once the surface is genuinely dry
• Matt or wet-look finish, whichever you prefer
• Edges, thresholds and drainage kept clear of sealer
• Before and after photographs

How we do it

1. 01

   Wash it first

   Sealing dirt in is worse than not sealing at all. The drive gets cleaned, weeded and left to dry out first.

2. 02

   Wait for it to dry

   Block paving holds water for longer than it looks. Sealing a damp drive traps the moisture and clouds the finish, so this step is not rushed.

3. 03

   Sand the joints

   Kiln-dried sand brushed in and worked down until the joints are full to the top.

4. 04

   Seal the surface

   Applied evenly, kept off the edges and the drainage, and left to cure before anything drives on it.